The remaining elements of my outfit today are from Fort Belvedere and these are our two-tone shadow-striped socks in brown and light blue and our brown knit tie with light blue stripes. Covert twill came on my radar after a piece Derek at Die, Workwear wrote a couple years ago saying how they are his favorite winter weather trousers, more so than flannel. And while pleats, as we know them today, did come about in the 1920s, there was also a fad for pleat-like styles a hundred years earlier in the 1820s. Unfortunately it seems to be another growing trend: shorter or cropped leg trousers. Pleats are being pushed by the fashion media because they have to follow a rule that says style must change every 15 years. Say hello to Natalinos double reverse pleat trouser.
I might humbly suggest that all of your videos on Why did men stop might well be retitled..Why did men become slobs.. orWhy did men stop being gentlemen. Most of my closet is BB.
Buy it here. They arent cheap, but quality never is, and the price is always soon forgotten. What office? force more consumers to present themselves with a better appeal.
Being a musician, this was always important to me, and the images I had to carry in the various trends and styles which came and went were essential to my work. Cloth with this much substance to it hung and draped from the body beautifully, leading to cleaner lines and far fewer wrinkles.
Of course, you can find both the socks and the tie that Im wearing today, in addition to a wide array of other classic mens accessories, in the Fort Belvedere shop. The 80s though represented the last period of true mainstream appeal for pleats, so its at this point in our historical overview that we finally get to our main question of the day: Why did men stop wearing them? This was in direct contrast to previous decades, which had a uniform of sorts that consisted of a shirt, jacket, trousers, waistcoat, and so on. Half the time he also doesnt seem to enjoy the right fit or length. When it comes to modern fashions, its undeniable that, since the mid-2000s or so, there has been a pointed emphasis on skinny or slim-fitting clothing. Is this too much info or are you guys OK with it. Therefore, my trousers today are khakis made from a more modern, lightweight fabric. I use to wear pleated pants a majority of the time but my wife feels they make me look puffy.
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[] Theyve also dropped several pairs in their higher rise, single pleat model, if thats your jam. All of which of course is a shame, Ive got a closet full of excellent pleated trousers, but seldom are there occasions refined enough to wear them these days. Both were always impeccably tailored, whether formally or informally dressed, and quite often wore exquisite trim pleated pants, usually in a lightweight tropical wool suiting (sorry, Preston I also had a wonderful pair of cotton/rayon pleated Girbaud pants in the day which were very lightweight). I had to sell my line-up of gray flannels earlier this winter after some weight gain and subsequent body shape changes from the workouts I was doing to wrestle that back down, so I ordered a pair of charcoal flannels in my preferred mid-high-rise flat front during the last seasonal sale of the year. It started with the, The slim fit, low rise trend started giving way to a more comfortable fit, including a higher risebecause after all, properly sitting down is very difficult in slim fit, low-rise pants (. Eg.
I just think they are a great look. This winter, Im still reluctant, but am once again thinking Maybe I should give pleats another try.. But they are fashionable, and fashions, once they become dated, are suddenly viewed objectively.
In the meantime, Im wondering, what are your opinions on pleats? Cavour has covert twills as well, in their more mainstream mid-low rise with the single baby pleat. [], [] on Instagram quite a bit and was impressed by how flattering they were even on some larger guys.
I think the ubiquitous advertisements with skinny, athletic guys in these suits makes them believe that theyll seem skinnier in a skinnier suit fashion. Very young, thin guys can kind of get away with them, but even then, I dont think theyre flattering.
The ones born after about 1975 who wear pleated pants tend to be classic menswear enthusiasts like Raphael who dress more formally as a hobby. On a slim man like Preston, pleated pants can have a way of emphasising a very slim build just as slim fit on a more solid man (think someone with more of an endomorph build like Sven Raphael Schneider) emphasises wider legs or larger mid-section. charcoal flannels in my preferred mid-high-rise flat front. There have been other influences such as mass produced poor quality clothes, manufacturers trying to save money through poor quality materials and/or designs (hence the skinny leg or jogger style pants with extreme tapers) and changing fashion trends and/or societal changes. After all, for those in the know about the benefits of pleats, there simply isnt quite anything like the look that a well-made pair of pleated trousers will provide. Im a bit older than you gentlemen and I recall that flat-front tighter trousers came into fashion in the early 60s with the British invasion pop music trend. My imagination or are the pants in the Sven and Preston photos a tad short from the shoes? Still, I would like to incorporate more trousers with inward-facing pleats and heavier-weight fabrics into my collection in the future. I still prefer the flat front of the charcoal flannels I bought. The only question I have with pleats is will they be forward or reverse? I get mine from Cordings in Piccadilly, by mail order actually. These days, pleated trousers are more commonly associated with the workplace.
I do however, I have one exception: I think its ok if you insist on trying them out again, but go for single pleat pants that have a buckle strap rather then belt loops. Pleats Can Be Unflattering, If Cut Poorly, 5.
They arent a classic look any more then straight leg pants are, as some fashionistas will claim. Suit retailers (like SuitSupply or Ralph Lauren) or more casual wear (like J. This isnt an organic style thats evolving its just fashion. I grew up in the Seventis as a teenager and the biggest influence on me and my friends was Bryan Ferry..#0s Styling proper dress and making the effortAll things that count not today. Also possible, as with a great many things, especially post-80s, pleats became a much more feminine thing. Secret agent Theres a man who puts his shirts
I agree wholeheartedly about sharp creases (and pressing trousers and shirts in general) really enhancing ones overall appearance. 
Derek at Die, Workwear wrote a couple years ago. In the office?
Thats because theyre not flattering.
The only other way to get this functionality, if you prefer the slim flat-front look, is to add stretch fabric (which indeed nearly every mainstream brand in the world has done now). There is often a correlation between popular music and fashion. I have to agree. 
Despite the pleat, I wanted to give them a try. So, while they might not become the dominant fashion ever again, we certainly wouldnt want to rule it out and we think youd be hard-pressed to find a more stylish alternative. Sorry but, probably one of your worst treatise Pleats are still worn, and I for one will still wear them on suits, with cuff too Sadly correct wear has become a myth, however as you grow older the fashions of teen agers is NOT what you should think of as properly dressed. Are you a fan, or dead-set against them like I have been most of my adult life? The fabric blows me away. That being said though, personal taste is an entirely different part of the equation and probably best saved for another article. Otherwise they balloon around the front section and dont look at all fitted.
Excellent video, as always. Natalino, by the way, also has some twill trousers in their normal single-pleat, high-rise fit: one in cream cavalry twill, then covert twill in navy and gray. 
By continuing to browse the site, you consent to their use. On a side note, living in Manhattans Lower East Side, I see a lot of young men wearing very slim suits with stretchy fabric and high inseam, and the majority do not look good in them. But then again I also like heavily starched shirts also.
My Dockers (and my suit pants) all have pleats.
And as clothing casualized in the 1980s and 1990s, fun was had at the expense of the nerd. Hi Ken, thanks for reaching out, and congratulations on the novel! Think flare bottom pants in the sixties and seventies. It started with the mini single reverse pleatlike these at Alex Mill sometime around 2015a pinky toe dipped back into the water. Are pleated pants gone forever?
Weve found six compelling reasons why we believe the pleated trouser has lost its luster and for our first reason, well zero in on the pleat itself as thats sort of integral to this post. The other pair is a ridiculously roomy pair of Bills Khakis which make me give tribute to the late great General Douglas (rip) MacArthur. With that out of the way, in order to understand where pleats went, we have to know first where they came from. Just yesterday I was bemoaning skinny legged pants with a friend.
So I went all-in, getting a pair by Eidos in a more classically Italian double-forward pleat configuration. First up here would be my cardigan, which features tones of both blue and brownish gray. On a man with a build like Preston Schlueter, a slim fit suit or slim fit trousers are fine even flattering; on someone with a heavier build, though, it can blow other things out of proportion and emphasise all the unflattering body parts.
Hopefully, the fashion designers and manufacturers will In fact, quite a lot of men have wide thighs. Congrats of course, but unless youre Charles Bukowski, pleats! Those baby single pleats got a little deeper, a little more self-assured, but designers still keep the leg fairly slim.