metolius ultralight bolting kletterausrstung Conrad Anker, leader of The North Face climbing team and world-renowned alpinist, relies on these cams while making first ascents in the toughest conditions on earth. 
Awhole20% lighter than the original range, theMetolius Ultralight Master Cams offera hugeweight saving when compared to other cams on the market, whichcan be massive if you need to carry a double set. The above factors caused the Ultralight Master Cams to score lower than many other cams for ergonomics. Another time the Kevlar trigger on the second-to-largest unit, a No. The broken cam spring on the 00 Ultralight Master Cam. ultralight 
Well, everyone also climbed on hemp ropes with hip belays before we had dynamic climbing rope and belay devices. 
When you take these cams up, instead of the equivalent sizes of Camalots, you will have one more piece to place on the pitch. This is where the Ultralight Master Cams truly shine. Metolius made it easy for you to replace the Monster Sling after a few seasons. The only piece of plastic on the entire cam protects metal trigger wires. Please provide your cell phone number for shipping purposes. 
After 15 to 20 minutes of work, my partner finally got it out. For a full rack of Ultralight Master Cams thats over 5 ounces in weight savings. The new Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are revolutionary in every way. The thumb bar has essentially been completely redesigned to save weight. This movement was more pronounced on the bigger cams and careful use of extended slings or quickdraws was key to keep the cam in good position. We DO NOT offer in-store purchase, onlyClick & Collect. What you see at the checkout is what you'll pay. ultralight metolius ought All of which combined to create a cam that held up despite extensive testing in the field and during in house testing. If [we find a unit is] not safe, we'll still send it back, and tell people to not use it anymore.". senses. metolius ultralight bolting ). _3.jpg)
One note on the color coding for the sizes of cams thats neither good nor bad and up to the buyer to decide: Metolius cams dont copy the color coding popularized by Black Diamond. He was carrying a nearly complete set of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams intermixed with a collection of reduced-weight four-cam units (FCUs) by another brand, DMM. 10 sizes: #00 - 8, sizes 7 and 8 are new and very light for their size, Colour-Coded 11 mm Monster sling, thumb piece and trigger, Range Finder system assists you in choosing the correct size cam, CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. 
Advice. Our team is highly motivated, fast-learning, task and detail-oriented with a proven ability to identify, analyze, and solve problems. Get our awesome climbing newsletter, delivered weekly. The Ultralight Master Cams have a number of features that may pique the interest of shopping climbers in addition to their lightweight. The cam lobes are solidly constructed. I thought the original Master Cams were the best cams on the market, and the new ultralights are stellar. Once I shoved a #00 (with a range of .34-.47") into a tight crack on the overgrown route Fastest Shark (5.11) in the ADK, and nearly fixed the piece. The unique Range Finder system uses colored dots to instantly show you whether the piece is properly cammed. The wide cam lobes create more surface contact with the rock. So I rarely reached for this cam as my go-to pieceit just felt wobbly. These cams went through a number of in-house tests for controlled and measurable metrics and were used by a number of climbers in the field with varying experience levels and interests.
ultralight metolius
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Small cam range
Well, the lovely folks at Metolius were so busy shaving weight, they forgot to raise the price. 60.00 Top to bottom: Red Ultralight Master Cam (75g), #13 Black Diamond Stopper (71g). In the world of climbing gear, a 25% weight reduction is usually cause for a 25% price increase.
The Ultralight Master Cams are the cam of the future. While similar in function to the X4s, the Ultralight Master Cams take up less room on the harness and are dramatically lighter. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven, "The hole hadn't been radiused (rounded)," he said from the company's headquarters in Bend, Oregon.
Placing the No. When I climbed with a mix of the Ultralight Master Cams and Camalots, I consistently found myself reaching for the Ultralight Master Cams first, and Camalots second.
Opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of Moja Gear. New to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cam takes the weight off alpinists and trad climbers. 
metolius This Weeks Best Rock Climbing Gear Deals, Gear You Ought to Know: Sterling Hollow Block, What AshimaShiraishis 45-Foot Fall Can Teach Us About GriGris, Gear Guide: Best Climbing Equipment for New Climbers, Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of the Mad Rock Lifeguard, Black Diamond Ultralight Camalot vs. Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Comparison Guide, Free rock climbing PDFs on technique, training, knots, and more, 5 Winter Sport Safety Tips Everyone Should Know, A Few Key Relief Methods To Try if You Have Back Pain, Reasons Why You Should Go on a Solo Camping Trip, Ways You Can Make Your Next Camping Trip a Successful One. The trigger bar retracts an upper trigger bar but the cables connecting the two are protected by plastic. 
Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. metolius Through Press Play, companies have an opportunity to massage customers?? metolius ultralight (These marking help users identify the cam's sweet spot during placement.). These cams have one more size in a full set than Camalots.
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My partners climb on Black Diamond Camalots, and chances are, youve got them on your rack too. 
We looked for signs of walking and stability when placing cams in various cracks of all different sizes. 1 Ultralight Master Cam placed in a vertical crack between dirt clumps. A full set of Master Cams from sizes 1-8 weighs in at 669g. The cable stems thicken with the larger sizes, so even the largest cams are a breeze to place (climbers with .75 X4s are probably familiar with the floppy feeling of cams that lack this essential feature). metolius ultralight To truly understand the weight savings of Master Cams, grab a large nut, ideally a #11 Wallnut or #13 Stopper. When I started climbing, I picked up the seemingly ubiquitous Camalots. Finally, the slight loss in camming range holds another unforeseen benefit. Door to door. ultralight metolius And with a solid scientific background influencing our approach, these skills, together with our ability to work with and through people, translate into a broad range of capabilities within a wide array of applications.
We've [since] changed the programming and now that hole gets kissed with a radius tool to make sure that problem doesn't happen again. No additional delivery or customs fees will be added by the courier.
But the Ultralight Master Cams werent the least stable cam in our testing and particularly during in-house testing we were able to observe the freely moving stem of the cam that allowed the cam lobes to stay in place while the stem moved as rope was pulled through a carabiner attached to the sling. metolius Schneiter is an AMGA-certified guide, founder of Glenwood Climbing Guides, and very quick on his draws. Metolius gives you the usable range representing the range in which cams can be safely used, rather than the deceptive industry standard of reporting the absolute minimum and maximum expansion range which covers so overcammed that you will never get it back to completely tipped out. Clipping these cams inspires confidence, and this is no accident; Metolius has designed these cams to be a perfect placement every time they leave your harness. Even more impressive, the Master Cams manage to claim this weight victory with one more cam in the full set (8 total)than the Ultralight Camalots (7 total). A subtle curve on the thumb bar createsa feeling of stability.
Machined holes in the trigger bars shed weight and help you grasp the cams securely. 8, an equivalent size of a No. This piece will be sent back to Metolius for repair. A cursory glance at the ranges listed by Black Diamond and Metolius is shamefully deceiving. It is true, their single axle design does not offer the same expansion range as double axle cams. The cams quite literally feel like they bite into the rock. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are a lightweight cam with ten sizes to put on your rack, from cams smaller than your fingertips to fist size. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. 
These cams are 40% lighter than most cams, and their lobes use stops for extra security in cracks. idahoadventuresports Sierra climbing legend Peter Croft had this to say about the Ultralight Master Cams in this interview: The reason I really like Metolius cams in the first place is how light they are. 
Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear. Ultralight Master Cams are made in the USA. Note: The small stereo hanging on Scott's harness likely weighs more than the rack of cams we brought on the route; so much for "light is right." 50.95 The Range Finder system provides color coding to help new climbers find the right fit for cam placements. This system helps the cams take up less space on the rack. This sacrifices a small amount of range, though after comparing the numbers, we know that the range lost is mere millimeters on small placements. Answers. 5 Videos Worth Wasting Time With, View Lowest Prices: Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Set, Best Holiday Gifts for Climbers All Under 20 Bucks, See a full technical comparison between the Metolius and Black Diamond Ultralight cams here, Find the lowest prices on sets of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, Find the lowest prices on individual Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. Jonathan Siegrist plugs a green Master Cam into a crack at Smith Rock. The trigger wires are made with Kevlar, thus avoiding the fate of metal cables used in most trigger wires which became frayed and broken with extensive use.
Everyone climbs with them, so arent they obviously the best choice? [Photo] Chris Van Leuven. Largest size is wobbly Gear You Ought to Know is a series that showcases underrated, under-appreciated, or just plain innovative gear in a discussion-based format. If theres a piece of gear youd like to see featured,tell us. Our robust yet cost-effective offerings are both tactile and experiential and support a myriad of corporate objectives. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven. The flexible stems held up well despite when being loaded over edges in a horizontal placement. When this discrepancy is accounted for, the difference in range is close to 10%. This tooth pattern is found on all but the smallest two cams and presumably helped the cam stay in place. The trigger bar is the narrowest trigger bar of the cams tested and proved more difficult than other cams to use. The colour coded slings help for easy location and are easily replaceable after a couple of seasons of use. Ryan Sengebush is belaying. Sign up toour newsletterfor first refusal on all thebiggest and best deals as they come in. The lobes also have Range Finders with green-to-red dots along the sides that assist your placements. One drawback is the lack of a thumb loop, which aid climbers may scoff at as it prevents the ability to clip in short when moving in aiders. metolius offset cam master Drawing on our decades of climbing, running, training and general experience in the mountains, wecontinue todevelop and expandthis collection of core products directly made by or designed and sourced by Rock + Run. Prone to sticking, Patagonia Women's Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs: Stay dry in the mountains without sacrificing comfort or function, Fifty Years in Yosemite: The soft-spoken legacy of Werner Braun, "Mr. Astroman", Ocun WeBee Bigwall Harness: Bridging the gap between super light and bulky, Two new big wall routes completed on Alaska's Kichatna Spire, Fast times on Slovak Direct: Two teams speed up one of Denali's hardest routes in a day, The Trango Cirrus: A sturdy dual sport helmet, BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns: Functional mood lighting for your tent, car or campsite. To put it simply, these cams feel good to place.
When compared to a full rack of Ultralight Camalots (including a .3 Camalot, which is not available as an Ultralight), the Master Cams still emerge victorious, with a slight advantage of 24g. Ethically sourced Polish goose and duck down, combined with lightweight technical fabrics for exceptional warmth, weight and durability. To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our, #0: 45g, #1: 52g, #2: 55g, #3: 65g, #4: 75g, #5: 85g, #0: 10.0 - 15.0 mm, #1:12.5 - 18.0 mm #2: 15.5 - 22.5 mm, #3: 18.5 - 26.5 mm, #4: 23.5 - 33.5 mm #5: 28.0 - 39.5 mm, #0: 5kN, #1: 8kN, #2: 10kN, #3: 10kN, #4: 10kN, #5: 10kN. However, sometimes it was hard to get them out because I'd over-cam them, especially with the micro sizes like #0 and #00, which is easy to do because of their limited cam range. Metolius cams have always been lighter, but the new Ultralights are just a whole level beyond that. In exchange for this small sacrifice, the cams give you increased holding power, and thus are more likely to stay in the rock than competing cams with higher camming angles. Later, while jamming hands/wide hands routes like On the Loose (5.10), in the ADK, and The Rose (5.10) in Bolton, Vermont, I discovered that my least favorite size was the No. Banana Fingers and the Banana Fingers logo are trademarks of Banana Fingers Ltd. We use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience. He explained that the cams in my set were from an early batch, within the first few hundred units made, and that the hole where the Kevlar cord passed through on the No.
An updated version of the original Metolius Master Cam, the Ultralight Master Cam can now claim to be the lightest cam on the market, thanks to new holes in the trigger, a slightly shorter sling, and a redesigned thumb-piece that doesnt require a cable loop. Hence, for the next few months, I ended up climbing with a near-full set. The camming angle, the angle at which the lobes of the cam contact the rock, is slightly smaller than most other cams on the market, especially the Camalots which have a relatively large camming angle. 
The colour coded slings help for easy location and are easily replaceable after a couple of seasons of use. Down two cams, I wanted to know what I could do to get the pieces repaired. We can notify you when this product is available: The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are a super light climbing cam range, great for tradders and alpinists. "And we'll tune up your cams and inspect them to make sure they're safe. EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. Shoreline Business Park, Sandside, Cumbria, LA7 7BF. The Ultralight Master Cams are sleekly built units with a slender profile that fit well in narrow cracks. The new shark fin tooth patternmakes them performoptimally in soft rock and the flexible, single-stem unit with an optimised cam angle, offers increased holding power when climbing. 
7 cam was sharp, thus causing it to cut. ultralight metolius bolting *Your purchase helps to support the work of Gear Institute. ultralight metolius The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams can serve as the backbone of a rack, providing sizes from tiny cracks to fist size cracks. Bill Dodd following P1 on Sunburst Arete, ADK (5.8, 200'). Looking down on a perfectly placed #5 Ultralight Master Cam high on The Fastest Gun (5.10b, 500'). For example, the Camalot Ultralights start at $90 and go to $130 for a #4. 
Now throw it away, because the #4 Ultralight Master Cam covers the same size at almost the exact same weight. Repairable, Cons: They nowhave two new larger sizes to compliment your rack too! EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. metolius And in a time when the need exists to resonate across all, simply Press Play; you'll never be at a loss for what to say. From identification to implementation, Play Projects is the ideal partner to plan, manage and/or execute your projects. The Ultralight Master Cams retail for the same $60 as the original Master Cams, cheaper than DMM, Black Diamond, Wild Country, and Totem Cams. 
Shown here is a No. But at least we had tunage. When doubling or tripling up sizes, such as for a desert splitter, the weight savings becomes more significant. Metolius also modified the teeth on the cam heads to a "shark-fin tooth pattern [for] optimized bite in soft rock," their website says. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, Orbayu A Climbing Odyssey with Nina Caprez and Cdric Lachat, WTF is Dry Tooling? What sets the Ultralights apart from the earlier generation of Master Cam FCUs is that these units have a thinner, 11mm sling instead of a 13mm sling. United Kingdom. 
The cam stops are milled into the lobes, making the cams more resilient and difficult to damage even in the event that they do pull out. Home Gear Reviews Climbing Climbing Cams Metolius Ultralight Master Cam. ", He also explained that users who break cam triggers or need the slings replaced can and should send them to Metolius for repair. metolius 
The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is an ultralight single stem camming device thats perfect for long trad routes and technical trad climbing. You save: 15% ( Over several months of testinglet's just call it climbingfrom the sharp cracks in Vermont's crags to the sustained splitters in New York's Adirondacks (ADK) to Boulder, Colorado's smooth granite, these svelte units performed as well as single-axle cams are expected to. 
I like that," my partner said as he threw my gear sling over his shoulder. metolius The Ultralight Master Cams proved to be a durable and tough cam, scoring second only to the DMM Dragons in terms of durability. Metolius has abandoned the use of these grooves and instead has created a shark fin pattern, specifically designed to help the cams hold in soft rock. By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement. Red dots indicate a placement that is too tipped out or open to be effective, yellow dots are in the middle and the green dots show the prime placement range for the cam. For small cams, it comes out to a millimeter or two. When first switchingto the Ultralight Master Cams, this system makes finding the proper size a breeze, and when you hand your rack to a partner who is unfamiliar with the cams, he or she will surely be thankful for the feature. Grooves milled into cam lobes have often been considered more a product of marketing than functionality. Durability is good with solid cam lobe and stem construction and tough Kevlar trigger wires. Their feedback provided the information to best understand how each cam performed. And, now that I'm aware of Metolius's repair policy, my broken units won't have to collect dust. We paid close attention to how cams handled when being placed or cleaned and by various climbers to gain a sense of each cams ergonomics and ease of handling. Tim A broken trigger on the #7 Ultralight Master Cam. metolius ultralight cam power availability
He continued: "For whatever the reason, the bigger cams have a greater angle coming into the trigger, and it's harder on the radius. At 65 grams (2.3 ounces) for size 3 (orange), the Ultralight Master Cams are some of the lightest cams tested.
Metolius Range Finder system is included on sizes 2 through 8 in which colored dots along the edge of the cam lobes provide visual guidance for good or poor cam placement. The Ultralight Master Cams offer a lot in the versatility department owing to their lightweight and the ten sizes available in the set, allowing climbers to fit from tiny cracks that are less than a fingertip to larger than hand size cracks. The solidity of Ultralight Master Cam placements may be tough to quantify, but it is no mere accident. ultralight metolius cam master Regarding other broken parts of the unit, such as damaged cam springs, "if it's fixable, we'll fix it," he said. While the Ranger Finder feature is less helpful for climbers experienced with traditional gear, it may be beneficial for newer climbers or those getting a feel for proper cam placements. The Range Finder dots and shark fin grooves are prominent features of the Master Cams. In comparable placements the Ultralight Master Cams were more likely to move than its double axle competitors.
